Wasn’t pretty but it worked and besides it was all covered by his nacelle (03 Road King). We ended up drilling a hole through the clamps and through the handlebars and used self-tapping screws to lock it down because his clamps were bottomed-out and the bars were still loose. The only reason I even messed with it is out of fear.last year my dad’s handlebars stripped out while on a road trip so we had to perform emergency surgery on it with borrowed tools on the side of the road in Bryson City, NC. The problem I ran into last night was getting a hex socket and torque wrench into the bolts.there isn’t enough room between the bolt and bottom of the inner fairing (just below the stereo) so that’s why I had to cut off an old 1/4” Allen wrench just before the bend in order to get it in there. You'll find the torque is equalized for both fasteners. Finger tight on one, then use the torque wrench on the other, then check the first one with the torque wrench. If you need to be convinced, try it on one of the other clamps where both screws/bolts are accessible, like the one for the brake handle and master cylinder to handlebar. As long as you don't bottom the top half of the clamp out on the riser portion (leave a gap on both sides), the load on the two bolts will be equalized. Just get them snug, then use your torque wrench on the opposite bolt. When you're dealing with a bar clamp designed like this one, you don't need to worry about getting your torque wrench on those front inaccessible bolts. I've got a feeling pretty much any of us who've turned a wrench have made similar mistakes, so don't worry about it.ītw, another tip you may not be aware of. Btw, you're definitely not the only person around here who overtightened stuff. You might want to remove the bolts and make sure you don't have any pulled threads from the risers if OK I'd install some new bolts (discard the old ones) and call it a day. The most vulnerable part is the riser, not the bolts.
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January 2023
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